Sunday, June 22, 2008

Summer Is Here And You've Still Got Time To Get That Suit Fitting Right

It's June and I didn't quite get all the weight I wanted off but now the kids are demanding we all go to the beach. That Moo Moo look is an option but wow I still feel I have time to do something to at least approximate swim attire. Then I realized where I had gone wrong all these post children years... the fit.

Outside the bedroom, there’s nowhere a woman is expected to bare quite so much flesh as the beach. There’s no better time to get it right — to work out what flatters you — and yet hordes of us head into the bare-skin wilds wearing the first thing we liked the look of.

Tired of apologising for the poor fit of my hastily-acquired swimsuits (pulling up drooping straps, making terrified chest-adjustments after an impulsive dive, constant re-tightening of halter ties, wearing cover-ups to get to the beach kiosk) I realised it was high time I went for a proper fitting.

I found myself in the hands of Maria Walker, head lingerie fitter at John Lewis, which offers a free lingerie and swimwear-fitting service. After taking good stock of my proportions, she guided me through the department’s selection until we found my fit.

The first step was to measure my torso — this (and your bust size) should be the basis of all swimsuit decisions, though Walker says too few women know it. She looped a tape measure under my legs and up until the ends met — which they didn’t. This means that I have an “extra long torso” — anything above the average of 60 inches.

THE DRAGGING EFFECT

If you have a long torso, you will struggle to find a suitable one-piece, says Walker. Most cater to average lengths and will cause an unfortunate dragging effect with the suit pulling from the top and bottom.

I did find one that worked: a strict empireline divided the understated brown bottom from a c l e a v a g e -revealing but classy halter neck top in a leopard-print of pale green and brown. This meant that each end of my torso was freer and wasn’t being pulled in opposite directions. If, however, you feel up to it, the two piece is the best option for a long middle.

For the body-conscious, there’s the tankini (a two-piece with a longer top) which lets your top half do its thing regardless of how far below it your abdomen extends. For me the tankinis didn’t work, the reason being a large bust. Full-fronted ladies need a fitted bra-style cup, Walker explained, and most tankinis offer something too unstructured.

I also considered a brightly patterned strapless top, with a thin halter string and a plain bottom with a tassle by Fantasie that would have looked great on a flatterchested woman with a long torso.

Walker urged me to consider a fullblown bikini. I’ve never had a flat stomach, so have usually gone for a one-piece that (I have assumed) will accentuate my assets on top (chest and toned shoulders) and help deny the existence of everything else.

But bikinis offer more choice for those with non-average bodies; you can choose one thing to flatter your top and a different item for your bottom. Structured, sexy tops are easier to come by.

BRAVE

We came across a perfect fit: a well-structured patterned halter-neck with low trunks from swimwear brand Freya. It had the lift and shape on top and plenty of coverage on the bottom — there’s a roll-top to the trunks so they can go higher or lower depending on how brave I feel.

Colour-wise they’re a good bet because they are dominated by brown and pink, warm colours suited to pale tones or pasty pre-tan skin (like mine).

Bright blues and greens — which show up a lot on swimwear racks — are harder to wear if you’re pale. They’re cold colours but can look superb on tanned blondes. My Freya has a bold pattern, which Hayley Moore, Swimwear buyer at Asos, the designer shopping website, says can be less flattering for fuller figures.

Moore says that those with boyish figures should look to add feminine touches such as frills around the leg or ribbons. Straight and narrow gals can also get away with strings — a sexy touch.

Finally, as Walker points out, lots of tops are padded with gel. Don’t be afraid to do this if you’re flat.

Pear-shaped ladies should try to draw the eye upwards — a plain colour on the bottom and embellishments like jewels, gems and sequins on top.

Moore recommends 1950s styling. So ladies, no matter what your shape, remembering a few guidelines will let you paddle in style.

Personalised swimwear fitting available free at John Lewis, Oxford Street

THE FIT

Short legs/big hips
Go for high cut swimsuits: it’s a myth that covering up “problem” bums and thighs is the way forward
Long torsos
Women with a torso of over 60 inches should first consider two-piece suits; these will enable your body to reach its full stature without being tugged into an unflattering shape
Big-busted
You need something fitted, preferably like a bra — stay away from the strapless cut as this will force your chest east and west, not up and out
Boy-shaped
The long and lean should go for triangular shapes where possible and also avoid tube tops as these don’t add shape, they squash
Pear-shaped
Draw the attention up, up up; choose a plain bottom and an embellished top

Source Zoe Strimpel CITY AM .COM